vehicle maintenance intervals and costs?

[QuarterMillionMan]

1) when do you change brakes? In 2021 front & rear brakes were done $400 total
2) battery do you wait until one day it dies? During COVID in 2020 as a preventative measure changed to a new battery $175. Now in 2024, I'm thinking of getting a new one and not wait until it dies
3) oil change twice a year at $35
4) wiper blades every 6 months, cheap DIY
5) tires just changed $600 but maybe every 4 years
6) what else?

[Fishindude77]

1) when do you change brakes? In 2021 front & rear brakes were done $400 total
Have them inspected every time you rotate tires and have them changed when they tell you they need changed. Mileage out of brakes varies wildly depending mostly upon driving habits.
2) battery do you wait until one day it dies? During COVID in 2020 as a preventative measure changed to a new battery $175. Now in 2024, I'm thinking of getting a new one and not wait until it dies
New automobile batteries typically last 5-7 years and I wouldn't change it until it gives you problems. Getting a jump is typically a rather simple deal to get you to someplace where it can be changed.
3) oil change twice a year at $35
3-5000 Miles
4) wiper blades every 6 months, cheap DIY
When they aren't working like they should, leaving streaks, etc. They last a lot longer in snow and ice free climates. Pull into any Autozone and they'll put new ones on for free.
5) tires just changed $600 but maybe every 4 years
Tires are like brakes, really depends on driving habits, and you need to rotate every other oil change. I can typically get 70,000 miles out of a set and they're still in fairly decent shape, but if winter is coming on I want good tread and may replace just ahead of winter weather.
6) what else?

In our business we ran a large fleet of automobiles, pickups and heavy trucks. If you want to keep costs down long term, eliminate down time, get best trade in values, etc. then you do upkeep and maintenance by the book, keep them clean and quickly fix any damage or anything wrong.
Little things like keeping them washed & waxed, fixing minor dents and scratches are important. Seems like once small imperfections are allowed they begin to add up and before long you're driving junk.

Take care of them and they'll last a long time and give you decent value. We ran all of our pickups to 200-250k miles with not many major issues, and they were still in pretty good shape when we replaced them.

[ua_guy]

Every owner's manual should have a required/scheduled maintenance guide by time and mileage. Check it out.

Some of the commonly overlooked items are brake fluid flushes, cooling system flushes (and thermostat replacement), transmission service, power steering flushes. Sometimes intervals aren't listed for brake fluid or power steering. Personally, I have those done every 5 years or less. It prevents corrosion in the braking system. The power steering pump is usually a "run to failure" item, but the life can be greatly extended with fresh fluid.

Differential service in modern vehicles is often "run to failure" and no interval is listed. I typically change mine at least once or twice in 100k. If it's limited slip, more often, as the clutches wear and dirty up the fluid.

There typically isn't a maintenance interval listed for shocks and struts. They wear progressively. 50k can be a good run for most of them. Healthy shocks prevent other suspension wear. If one has failed, I'd replace all 4. AT minimum they must be replaced in pairs (front or rear).

As for brake pads and rotors, I generally let the pads speak for themselves. Like tires, you can measure pad depth to estimate how much remaining life they have left. Rotors and drums are cheap enough that I'd replace every other brake job so long as they measure out smooth and have enough material. I'll only turn a set once.

Tires at minimum every 10 years, they age out, regardless of remaining tread. 5 years is a good run for a battery. I also replace mine early - which also prolongs the life of the alternator, so it's not running all the time trying to charge a heavily sulfated battery.

Serpentine belts - about every 7 years. EPDM material belts last a long time but they do wear out even if they aren't showing signs of stress (cracks or tearing).

Idler pullies and tensioners have a variable life. If you're replacing belts at 100k, it's not a bad idea to change those out. They're cheap.

CV axles on front and AWD cars should be inspected regularly. Torn boot = replace. It's a good time to do a wiggle test on major suspension components too. Bushings wear progressively and you sometimes don't realize how sloppy things have gotten until you replace them and the suspension feels new and tight again. Good time to check the motor and transmission mounts, and if the car has a driveshaft, any hanger bearings and u-joints.

If your steering pulls or doesn't feel right, or the steering wheel is consistently off center while driving straight....it's past due for an alignment.

**If your owners manual has an interval for a timing belt replacement, DO NOT ignore that. And do not skimp. You'll want to replace it, including any guides or tensioners while the front of the engine is opened up.***


I'll think of more later...

[jenn_jenn]

We have a trusted mechanic and we do whatever they say needs to be done. I don’t over think it.

[disneysteve]

1) when do you change brakes? In 2021 front & rear brakes were done $400 total
2) battery do you wait until one day it dies? During COVID in 2020 as a preventative measure changed to a new battery $175. Now in 2024, I'm thinking of getting a new one and not wait until it dies
3) oil change twice a year at $35
4) wiper blades every 6 months, cheap DIY
5) tires just changed $600 but maybe every 4 years
6) what else?

The answer to most of these question is it depends on mileage and/or wear. I replace brakes when my mechanic tells me they're at or below the safety threshold. I get the oil changed a little beyond the recommended interval. I replace wiper blades when I start to notice an issue with them. I replace tires when the tread gets down near the safety threshold. I replace the battery when it dies or if a routine check reveals it's nearing the end of its life.

[crazyliblady]

1) when do you change brakes? In 2021 front & rear brakes were done $400 total
2) battery do you wait until one day it dies? During COVID in 2020 as a preventative measure changed to a new battery $175. Now in 2024, I'm thinking of getting a new one and not wait until it dies
3) oil change twice a year at $35
4) wiper blades every 6 months, cheap DIY
5) tires just changed $600 but maybe every 4 years
6) what else?

1. I just recently had the brake pads replaced. As for the rotation, I base that on when my mechanic in a locally owned shop says they need to be replaced. I have been using the same shop for 8 years and they are honest.
2. Probably about every 3 years, I think.
3. About every 3 months.
4. About once a year.
5. I just had that done. Not sure about rotation.
6. I wash my car about once a month.

[QuarterMillionMan]

We have a trusted mechanic and we do whatever they say needs to be done. I don’t over think it.

I never leave maintenance to chance. For instance, when driving from Los Angeles to Las Vegas which is a 300 mile one way trip which is long to me (4 - 5 hours) but short trip for a lot of people. I fill air in tires to 35 psi (including spare tire), top off all fluids, clean windows inside and out, check wiper blades, RainX windshield, etc. I used to also bring top & bottom radiator hoses & serpentine belt. But I bring a floor jack, air compressor, tire cross bar, tools, gallon water, battery jumper fully charged, etc. I also have AAA 200 mile tow if needed. I like to be proactive and not put myself to a break down to chance if I can help it.

[LivingAlmostLarge]

Same I Ask the mechanic we see

[LivingAlmostLarge]

Is jiffy lube bad?

[bjl584]

Is jiffy lube bad?

Bad is a relative term.
They, like most auto repair chains are in the business of upselling and overcharging.
You are only going to get basic services there from people who probably aren't certified mechanics and are more of salesmen trying to make unnecessary repairs.

If you are under warranty, go to the dealer. Beyond that, I'd find a good local mechanic.

[myrdale]

Rather than time, go off miles.

My personal recommendation for determining maintenance intervals are based off, in order:

1) Vehicle's owners manual
2) Secondary manual (Haynes / Chilton)
3) Your personal experience
4) Service manager at the dealership
5) Mechanic

That is to say, educate yourself. Don't just go off what the mechanic says. I've had some excellent ones and I've had some really bad ones.

In general:

Oil change: 3,000 miles for conventional oil (10,000 miles for synthetic)
Tires: 60,000 miles
Belts: 80,000 miles
Coolant flush: 50,000 to 100,000 miles
Transmission flush: 30,000 to 80,000 miles
Timing Belt / Water Pump: 80,000 miles
Spark plugs (AND WIRES): 80,000 to 100,000 miles
Thermostat: 200,000 miles
Radiator: 140,000 miles
Various sensors on emissions: 100,000 miles
Catalytic Converter: 200,000 miles
Breaks: 150,000 miles?
PCV valve: 100,000 miles

For the battery, I'm guessing every 100,000 miles, but this one might be better measured in years. When I got rid of the Frontier, it seems like I had replaced the battery 4 or 5 times by the 19 year / 320,000 mile mark. I am at 75,000 on the Tacoma now and haven't replaced it yet.

If you can find a really good mechanic, feel free to move them up to #1 on my list. But I've seen far too many who are hit and miss. One guy said I needed a new power steering pump. A week later when I showed up for the appointment they told me they would confirm it was fine, but the guy was fired for making up claims about needing repairs. My power steering pump was fine.

[ua_guy]

Using mileage as a maintenance interval can be tricky. It needs to be monitored against a time-based interval. For example, if your oil change interval is 5000 miles but it takes you 2 years to accumulate 5,000 miles and all of your trips are to the store and dropping off the kids at school 3 miles away, then you are under-servicing your car. Oil should be changed annually, regardless of mileage, unless you hit the mileage interval first.

Same with coolant. Some modern coolants are advertised to be good for 10 years or 150,000 miles. If you have a 12 year old car with 89,000 miles and the coolant hasn't been changed, what are you waiting for? pH of coolant changes over time as it's exposed to air and other contaminants. That eats up seals, water pumps, and can lead to accumulating crud in the system that accelerates corrosion and can even clog the thermostat. Use the manufacturer-specified coolant as well. HOAT coolants do not mix with OAT coolants.

Things like radiators won't need to be replaced on any interval if you keep the coolant fresh. Same with water pumps. Part of the process is using correct fluids and procedures. Never use tap water to flush or fill a cooling system. Your cooling system doesn't need nor want things like chlorine, fluoride, minerals, metals in it.

[myrdale]

Things like radiators won't need to be replaced on any interval if you keep the coolant fresh. Same with water pumps.

I think it depends on the make and model.

I changed the coolant religiously, every 30,000 miles in the Frontier. My first radiator when at 140,000 miles. My second radiator went at 280,000 miles. In the case of Nissan they have / had a plastic piece that would crack. It was the same failure both times. For the Tacoma I am getting my first radiator flush done at about 80,000.

Replacing the water pump for the Frontier was recommended maintenance at the same time the timing belt was replaced. That was every 80,000 miles. Toyota hasn't indicated the necessity for this work on the Tacoma yet.

[Fishindude77]

Our shop mechanic recommended against the transmission flush. Said the flush often breaks loose little particles of crud that leads to transmission troubles. If it's not having problems, leave it alone and just keep the trans fluid level full.

[ua_guy]

Depends on the transmission. Most manual transmissions have a fluid drain/refill specified.

Automatics are all over the place. Some have to be done with an automotive scanner and at certain temperature readings to make sure the trans fluid thermostat is open. For that reason I'd use a dealer to complete recommended service on a transmission. Some of the independent shops are late to the game to get information and practice on newer transmission designs..

Other transmissions like Allison automatics - a lot of those are drain/refill only and have a separate spin-on filter. The internal filter typically only gets swapped during a rebuild.

The only time I wouldn't flush a transmission is unless it's specifically contraindicated by the manufacturer, or it's been so badly neglected that it's full of crud. At that point the trans is gone anyway. A flush is wasted money.